Sean, Author at Two Wise Nomads

The Majesty of Water

We were both so glad we made the decision to head up here to Iguazu Falls. No photo can do justice to the majesty of these falls. The sheer number of falls (275) in itself is incredible. Deryn and I were saying that many of these falls in isolation would be a tourist attraction in NZ!

We arrived at Iguazu Falls airport on the Argentinian size and got a taxi to our hotel (the famous Belmond Hotel) in the national park on the Brazilian size of the falls. The taxi cost 1400 pesos (A$35) and made the border crossing a breeze. The hotel was beautiful. We checked in and decided to visit the falls via boat. It cost about A$100 each, took 2.5 hours door to door for a 15 minute dunk under one of the waterfalls. Confirmed Deryn and my aversion to group tours.

We then walked around the falls once the park had been closed for day trippers – a real perk of staying in the hotel. The falls were amazing.

We had arranged for Sergio (our taxi driver from the day before) to meet us at the park entrance at 730 the following day for an early start to get into the park on the Argentine side. It was a great strategy as it meant we could get the first train to the main falls vantage point before the hordes arrived. It was absolutely incredible. Everyone should try get to see these falls. By the time we left the viewing platform, the crowds had grown from a few to about 30 with an endless stream arriving as each new train disgorged its passengers.

We then walked the two other circuits – the Superior Circuit, which was a walk around the top of the falls – and the Inferior Circuit around the bottom. Both are definitely worth doing but Deryn and I agree the Inferior was superior. We also agreed that the Argie side was better than the Brazilian although both are incredible.

I came down with a tummy bug so spent the afternoon lounging by the pool and having a kip in our luxury room – decided to make the most of the amazing facilities before we head off to Salta and back to hostels. If anyone does head down to BA to watch the Wallabies or AB’s play the Puma’s, make sure you include Iguazu Falls in your agenda.

Last tango in Buenos Aires

We were feeling a bit sad that our time in BA was coming to a close. We had a leisurely start to the day before heading off to buy Deryn some new walking boots – the current ones were causing a few hassle around her left ankle. Amazing how all shopping centres look the same!

We then got back on the subway and headed back to San Juan on the C line to make our way to Feria De San Telmo. The primary purpose was to witness the famous tango in the market. We had decided against going to a show and dinner the night before figuring a 730pm start with a 1am finish was not worth the price. It was a lovely afternoon, exploring the cobbled streets filled with interesting stalls and activities. We We got to see the famous tango which was a highlight after which we spent several hours playing cards and supping ales in a cool cafe chock full of knick knacks.

By the time we got on the subway to return to our hotel we were both steaming. A great way to spend our last day in Buenos Aires!

The Wall of Ice

We arranged for a taxi to drive us to the Perito Merino glacier. It meant we could come and go as we pleased and also pop into the Glaciarium Museum on way home. We got picked up at 815am – after luckily finding an open bakery for a pastry breakfast. These Argies don’t like rising easily or eating brekkie.

It took us an hour to get to the glacier. It was incredible; the sheer scale of the wall of ice, the rifle shots coming from within the living mass and every now and then, a roar as the ice broke off into the water. It was also breathtaking watching the rising sun highlight the blue of the ice. The 2 hours we spent walking around on the impressive walkways passed in a flash.

On our return journey we stopped in at the highly rated Galcierium Museum. It was filled with glacial facts, the highlight of which was watching a movie on the colllapes of the ice bridge at the Perito Marino glacier. The glacier connects with the land every few years and creates a barrier between Lago Argentino. The water levels rises (27m in this case) on one side before the water pressure eeventually creates a passage through ice which then, over several days, causes the bridge to collapse. Amazing to watch the power of nature.

We then got on the lash (and cards and backgammon) before finishing off the night at a local bar. Before we go, a picture of a couple of Zorros .

Early bird gets the Condors

We got up early (7am!) to get to the Condor lookout by sunrise at 830. It was below zero so we rugged up well. We needed our headlamps to guide us up the gentle gradient to the lookout.

Watching Mt Fitzroy the accompanying peaks slowly getting illuminated by the rising sun was spectacular. Made us realise what we had missed on our first day’s hike to Laguna de los Tres. We then walked to Mirador de las Aquilas – with a view of the lake and surrounding plaines.

We got the 1pm bus back to El Calafate after which we spent an hour or so walking around rhetoric town centre. The town was a bit bigger than we expected with a lot of outdoor equipment shops!

Laguna de los Tres

Today we did the Laguna de los Tres trek starting from the village of El Chalten to the lagoon lake below the triple granite peaks of Poincenot (3,002m), Fitz Roy (3,375m) and Mermoz (2,732m).

The majority of the trek was on easy paths with not too much climbing. Both Deryn and I were wearing 4 layers of clothing as well as gloves and beanies for most of the trek. The landscape varied from lovely shady beech forests to quite bleak alpine meadows. We got some spectacular views of the three peaks on the way up but unfortunately never without some cloud.

The last 2km was a tough 450 climb up a very icy path. It was also made more challenging through having to pass overly cautious trekkers on their way up and avoid sliding trekkers on their way down. The lagoon was impressive but unfortunately we did not get the view of the peaks because of the cloud cover.

It started snowing a but heavier on the way down which made for very picturesque landscape. Much like the other treks, the cold water from the glacier rivers was incredibly refreshing. We were both tired by the end of the trek but 25.8km and over a 1,000m of climbing explains why.

We stopped and had dinner at a local restaurant called Padrilla La Oveja Negre – along the main road to the walk. The food was incredible and so cheap. My fresh trout pasta was perfect – an for only $A10.

Paine Grande Refugio to El Chalten (Argentina)

It was wet and cold when we woke up which gave us some comfort in our decision not to hike the 22km to Grey Glacier.

We caught the 11.30 boat to Pudento and then jumped on a bus back to Puerto Natales. It was sad saying good bye to the spectacular Torre del Paine.

We also said goodbye to some fellow travelers who we met and really enjoyed on the journey – Mike and Robyn the Japanese American couple, Jason who was travelling with his American family for a year and finally the two American sisters Lorraine and Dotty.

We had a great feed back in Puerto Natales at our favourite cafe – Hamburgeuseria https://www.wearepatagonia.com/es-es/dining while all our trekking gear was cleaned in the local lauandromat. Ah, the simple pleasures.

The next day was 2 bus trips – 5.5 hours from Puerto Natales to El Calafate and then 3 hours from El Calafate to El Chalten. Leaving Chile was easy(ish) whereas the first thing you noticed on entering Argentina was the much heavier police presence. Two girls in front of us got dragged off the bus for carrying some unknown substance.

Walking through El Chalten in the freezing dark trying to find our house was a bit of a challenge but after knocking on a few doors we found our home.

Frances Lookout Point and walk to Paine Grande Refugio

We had our first experience last night of communal living. Swapping stories with a cross section (albeit mostly older travellers – relative to those sleeping in the tents that is. We got an amazing list of places we need to see on the rest of our adventure. However the night did not end so well in the communal 8 person Dome. What with the white noise being played from an iPhone (sounded like a cistern filling) and the snoring, it was a terrible night sleep.

We got away early at 8am so we were waking in pretty poor light. Dropped off one bag at the Italian Refugio and then headed to the Brittanico Lookout Point. 20 minutes in we got to see at least 4 avalanches high up in the mountains. Pretty cool.

Once again walk was 800m longer than expected, including a brutal 50 climb at the end. It was worth it thoug at the views of Paine Grande, Castillo and Catedral was amazing

The 13km walk to our hotel for the night – the Paine Grand Refugio – was relatively easy. Part of the trip was through a portion of the park that was burnt in a fire back in 2011. 83,000 acres were badly burnt – the dead trees make for an interesting landscape.

Deryn and I were both feeling the effects of 60km of hard trekking over the 3 days. It’s forecast for snow tomorrow so we’re not heading up to the glacier and will get back into Puerto Natales mid-afternoon rather than 10pm at night. We’re both relieved!!

Patagonia – hike Frances Sector

Not so an early start this am. We headed away at 9 for our 5 hour 13.5 hr hike to Doma Frances. Typically Deryn and I took the wrong track and ended up following the horse trail for the first 5km. Meant our 13.5 km hike turned into a 17.7km hike.

We walked along the edge of the Norsdenkjold Lake most of the way with incredible views of Los Cuernos, the lake and some high altitude hanging glaciers.

It took us a bit longer than expected due to our early misstep so we were glad to finally arrive at our domo at around 3. The domes are basic but a plank of wood would be fine.

Patagonia – Torres Del Paine

This blog starts with a lesson. If the time on your iPhone and iPad has not changed due to the end of daylight saving, then the time has not changed. We turned up to our 230pm bus to Torres del Paine, only to be told it left an hour ago at 230pm. $200 later and we had our own vehicle for the 2 hour drive our hotel Hotel Las Torres. The hotel room was a free upgrade from the shared Refugio we were meant to be staying in. It was luxurious.

Early breakfast next morning and away on our trek by 8am. It was barely light and cold. The weather gods were on our side however and it wasn’t long before we were peeling off layers under the warmth of a stunning day. It was was great watching the colours of the mountain change with the light.

We made pretty good time to the first stop at the Chileno Montain Refuge, a really cool campground the heart of a beautiful beech forest. It was basically a climb from there for the next 2 hours, at times quite challenging through a very rocky trail. We arrived at the Las Torres Base Lookout Point just before midday. The view of the lake and Los Torres de Granite was spectacular. Mind blowing to think people climb the towers. Torre Sur is the highest at 2850m.

We spent a leisurely hour enjoying the view and having some lunch before heading back to our hotel. We were both buggered by the time we crawled onto our beds for a well earned rest. 20km and 7.35 hours of waking does that.

A day of carbo loading

We spent the day wandering around Puerto Natales, reading and generally chilling.

Had a great feed at Cafe Artimaña- although we were surprised at the 55,000 peso bill ($120). The two double whiskeys didn’t help (bought a decent 750ml bottle in the supermarket for $25). I won 4 cribbage games on the trot to take it to 6 each.

The dogs again were very cool. Deryn and I chased the dood below several times over the course of the day trying to get a photo. He looked like a lion.