We were all up nice and early to be near the front of the queue for the 6am bus. We met Fernando at 5am and then waited in the dark to board the bus. It didn’t seem that long until we were snaking our way up the mountain with the improving light highlighting the incredible landscape. There was also an endless stream of torch lights of the poor sods walking to the top. A one hour steep climb.
The number of people allowed entry into the site is controlled but even then you want to be in before the 400 limit is reached. In no time at all we were in looking at the magnificent Machu Picchu – not before being warned that there were no toilets inside and if you leave you cannot go back in. In addition, you have to move around the site in one direction – no going back.
The place was everything we had imagined. Even better if that is possible. It was great having Fernando as a guide to explain what they understand about the place, but there is so much they don’t know. They are not even sure if it was a temple, a monastery or even a place of learning.
It is believed between 200 and 500 people lived there. All would have been nobles, commoners were not allowed unless they were working there – everyone had to give a year of labour to the government. Food was not a constraint, it was water.
It’s mind blowing to think that someone picked the site to build Machu Picchu given the incredible challenge. There were a lot of strategic reasons for its location, not least of all its challenging access.
The sophistication invoked in the construction was incredible – even down to the work done in building the foundations. Personally I believe aliens had to be involved.
Standing on these sheer drops layered by terraces, you can’t help but think that even today people would not attempt to build what they did. I hate to think how many people died in its construction. They know it was inhabited for about 100 years during the 1500’s but have no idea why it was abandoned – certainly the Spanish never found it. It was rediscovered by Hiram Bingham in 1911 and at that time had 3 families living in it. It was completely overgrown. Fernando says that another site has been found and they have no idea if there are even more such Inca sites around the place.
After 4 hours of awe, we said goodbye to Machu Picchu and Fernando and caught the bus back down to the town. We did a bit of shopping before sitting down for lunch at midday. A couple of rounds of Pisco Sours and things started moving. Next it was beers and whiskey for me.
We got the 3.30 train back to Cusco and continued our merry drinking on the train throwing in a game of cards to help the mood. I feel sorry for the other passengers in our carriage.
Carlos from Peru Summits met us at the station and took us back to Ricoleta Hostel. We popped into a divey little restuarant around the corner to the hostel (wouldn’t have dreamt of doing it a week earlier – nothing like living rough for a while). It was than a very sad farewell to our Aus mates – Daryl and I tried to keep going but eventually sense prevailed. AKA Cath
We had an early start to catch the Perú Rail Titicaca Express to Puno. It was 10 hour luxury train trip which unfortunately I spent 90% of asleep – I did wake for the meals. 30 minutes out of Puno we passed through a horrendous town called Juliaca. What was so memorable was for a 3 or 4km stretch we passed an endless number of massive petrol stations. I am talking 20 or 30 petrol stations side by side. The same brand would repeat every 3 or 4 station. I wonder what led to this madness??? We arrived in Puno around 6.30 and spent a bit of time walking around trying to find our hotel. We were back at 3800 metres so any walking was tough.
Puno, to be generous, is bland but we were not too fussed as we basically just wanted to recuperate from our incredible trek. I think the last afternoon festivities didn’t help!!
We spent 48 hours in Puno before catching a rather pongy bus to Copacabana in Bolivia. Lack of Spanish was a bit of a challenge particularly going through the border into Bolivia. We had no idea if we had to pay something, had the right documentation etc. We worried for no reason as it was a breeze.
Twenty minutes later we were in the lovely little village on the shores of Lake Titicaca, Copacabana and our really cool little hostel called Hostal Las Olas. It felt so nice after Puno. We immediately changed our stay from 3 nights to 4 – a perfect spot to chill for a few days.