We got up early to get out of Stepantsminda before the avalanche of trucks from Russia arrived. We’d already decided to give the Juta track a miss as the weather had completely closed in.
The drive was a relative doodle compared to the journey up. We still had to be very mindful of all the potholes and still encounted the holes odd truck but we did the journey in half the time of the journey up.
We stopped at the same roadside cafe for a cup of strong Turkish coffee ($3) and then back on the road. Getting into this. We stopped at a very Soviet styled city called Gori to check out the famous Stalin Museum. He was born in the town as Joseph Dzhugashvili but changed his name to Stalin which means Man of Steel!! Sums him up. The museum was ok – a bit odd that the man was memorialised but hey I guess it’s a tourist attraction so brings the tourists.
We had lunch in a local cafe and then got back on the road and off to our fancy room in Hotel Memoire in Kutaisi, one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. It was pretty miserable when we go there but thankfully found a park right outside the hotel. A slight hitch in that we had booked for the next 3 nights and not that night. They found a triple single room for us and agreed we would move into our grand room the following night. The room was lovely with views across the river to the town’s famous Bagrati Cathedral.
We decided to head out into the miserable weather and find a cafe to grab a coffee. The main square was shut off due to the due to the upcoming Independence Day celebrations. We walked down to the very fast flowing Rioni River. We found a cafe on the banks and sat and watched the turbulent water. While there we noticed a cable car heading up the hill overlooking the city.
So 3 GEL each later we were cabling our way up the hill admiring the views of Kutaisi. From the top it was a 15 minute walk through some lovely old houses to the Cathedral. The Cathedral was pretty busy – the front door was guarded by a couple of elderly female bull terriers shaking a begging plate at all those entering. The Cathedral’s here in Georgia, while beautiful, are not as opulent inside as the South American ones. Thank the Russians looters for that.
We decided to walk back the 30 minutes back to tue hotel as the weather had fined up. Poor Deryn went bottom up on a slippery bit of road and was really lucky not to do some real damage. We managed to find a cafe nearby for another lovely Georgian meal.
The weather was terrible the next day so after an amazing breakfast in the hotel we decided to stay close with any excursions. We managed to dodge the weather to find a local museum that had a few interesting nicks and nacks. It was then back to the hotel and our new double bedroom hotel suite to chill for the rest of the day.
Breakfasts in Georgia are rarely before 830 so any early departures are difficult. We got away at 9 and headed to the Prometheus Caves first which opened at 10. The drive there was lovely although this is where we first encountered the Georgian habit of letting their livestock (except sheep as they are too dumb) roam the streets. Numerous times we had to stop or drive slowly to get round a cow or dog that was sleeping in the middle of the street. The grass verges were often full of horses, pigs and the odd goats. Later in the trip we saw cows grazing on the grass growing on elevated barriers between the motorway!!
The caves were impressive although the tour group at about 30 odd was a bit too large to really get the best out of the caves. And for some reason the 300m boat ride wasn’t on – perhaps the water was too high from the rain. We were followed through the entire 1.4km underground walk by a trio of dogs.
After the cave it was off to the Okatse waterfall and canyon. Google Maps wanted to take us cross country so after a couple of false attempts we decided to go old school and follow the street signs. The waterfall was OK – the landscape reminded us of the Blue Mountains in Sydney. There was a zip line offer which looked great but unfortunately we didn’t have the time.
Next it was off to Okatse Canyon. It was a 2.3km walk from the entrance to the canyon and then a 2km walk along the canyon. Taxis were on offer -15 GEL each but we decided, somewhat unenthusiastically, to walk. It was a pleasant downhill walk (will be up hill back!!) to the canyon. They had built a steel walkway long the cliff of the canyon so you could see the river 70 or so metres below your feet. I know a few people that would struggle on the walk. It was beautiful and definitely worth it. We thought about a return taxi but unfortunately we had forgotten our cash. Good for the step count!
Driving back into Kutaisi, we passed huge, hulking ruins of legacy Soviet factories and decrepit housing blocks obviously built to house the workers. Must have been awful back in those dark days.
It was close to 5 by the time we made it back to our hotel. We were both starving so getting some food was urgent – basically breakfast and a bag of crisps was the intake for the day. The great thing about Kutaisi, and our experience in Georgia, is that’s it’s never hard to find a decent meal. Off to Telavi and the wine region tomorrow.