We had a nice relaxing morning sampling some of the local coffee, wondering around the village and then booking our horse ride up the river. We got picked up at 1.10 and driven about a kilometre to the stables just outside of town (close to the Paremo trek office). Both our horses were amazing (compared to the older horses we usually get). There was only the 2 for us, 3 with out guide. We set off on the road for a fairly steep decline to the valley floor below. Our guide only had to make a noise with his lips (much like calling a cat) and the horses would break into a trot. It was quite hard work going down the steep road – I could feel the blisters building already where my thigh was rubbing against the saddle.
We reached the bottom of the valley after about 30 minutes and then headed into the river. It was a lot of fun riding up the river, at times heading into quite deep water. The horses were incredible – they obviously know what they were doing. After about 30 minutes walking up the river we started to head back to town, however this time it was up stone and mud paths. It was amazing how the horses coped climbing the very steep and slippery paths and before we knew it we were back in Salento, although on the opposite side of town. My horse was keen to get home so any opportunity and he was off. We were back at the stables in 90 minutes of a 2 hour ride, but that was great as our guide could see we could ride so he sped it up. Damn, my legs hurt when I first got off. Dits was a lot better. Our legs were taking a pounding with the hiking and now this. Best we go book in our mountain biking ride!
We went back to Salento Bikes and told the guy we were in for the single track downhill – he had spent some time trying to talk us out of it the previous day when we popped in. He even showed us a video. However he piped down when we showed him a video of Manly Dam. 150k ($A70) pesos each for ride. W e turned up the next day at 1.10 (after another fantastic feed at Brunch – my soup was a 3 course meal). The ride to the start of the ride was interesting, mainly because the van would suddenly lose all power. Our driver had to turn the car off and wait a while. The exactly same ailment befell our taxi on the drive up to the Teleferico in Quito. Weird.
We arrived at our destination – La Alegria single track. Rated hard and as a black diamond track by Trailforks. Nothing like a challenge. The first part of the track was on pine needles through a pine forest – with a smattering of eucalyptus trees. It was slippery!! Things were made a lot more difficult as well as the brakes were the opposite side to what we were used to. It was challenging but sort of fun. We both came off a few times so our guide knew what to expect. It was just so different to anything that we had ridden. After about 20 mins the terrain changed to paddock which was a lovely reprieve. We cycled through a fair bit of farmland with plenty of animals. It was the clam before the storm. The last 2 kms were slipping clay on tracks that were v shaped crevices. I went over my handle bars twice (the brake issue) but still loved it – it was the old story of ‘speed is your friend’. It’s just takes a fair bit of getting used to going sideways all the time. We made it to the bottom in 46 minutes, over our target of sub 40. They had a championship here a month or so ago in which the winner did 17 minutes. I have no idea how. Starva says I was the second fastest of all time (in the 55-64 age bucket!).
We did originally have plans for doing 2 runs but they amount of physical activity we take undertaken over the last 5 days just made it a bad idea. We would kill ourselves if we tried it again. So it was a quiet night ahead of our early departure to the airport and our flight to Medellin.
We caught the 750am bus to Pereira airport for our 11.55am flight to Medellin via Bogota. We arrived at the airport just after 9 so we got put on the earlier 10.30am flight which meant we got to spend 3 hours in the Avianca business lounge in Bogota. It was lovely – good internet and unlimited good food. Medellin was a lot greener and a loft wealthier than I was expecting – as it turns out it was just where we were staying – 574 Hotel in the Astorga area. The hotel was lovely with the guy at the frond desk being really sweet.
I had my Ayahuasca experience booked for the next day so I had to go meet my guide Orion, at a coffee shop at the Estadio Metro Station at 730pm. We decided to grab the metro there until we bumped into Maya (of Bogota fame) who said to avoid it. The line of people waiting was incredible. Most office people do a 730 to 5pm shift so starting out our journey at 530pm was not a good idea So we started walking until the rain forced us into a taxi. And traffic. We made it with 15 minutes to spare. Orion was there with his nurse partner – he is a doctor that does Ayahuasca experiences on the side. He believes completely in its healing properties. He asked what I was hoping to get out of it – a lot of people do Ayahuasca to treat mental and even physical issues. Mine was simply about going on the journey. He questioned Deryn a bit as to why she was not doing it, telling her it would be good for her.
I met Orion the next morning at 8 at the North bus stop (off Caribe metro station) and after a 40 minutes drive we arrived at our location. It was an incredible experience for so many reasons and I would happily share the note I wrote about it. Just reach out and ask.
I was back home by 3 and met Deryn who had been on a city centre walking tour with Maya and friends.
I’m sure exactly what I expected from Medellín but it is a noisy, chaotic South American city. After meeting the doctor who was taking Sean away for his Ayahuasca treatment I was comfortable he was in good hands so I signed up for the Free Walking Tour.
It was excellent. It gave me better understanding of Medellin and it’s Paisa people. We visited many of the attractions in Downtown Medellín – Botero Square was my favourite with all his statues in one square, but the most interesting part was learning about its transformation. Medellín has gone from one of the most dangerous cities in the world (economic suffering, crime drug trafficking, civil unrest) to being recognised as one of the most innovative. Poor and high crime areas have been revamped and transformed into beautiful areas. Low income neighbourhoods boosted with library, parks and community centres. The guide asked how many of us had family who were happy for us to be here. Several of us put up our hands. He said 3 years ago no hands would have been up.
Taylor had told us about a great local she had met when she travelled through Medellin 2 years earlier so we decided to meet up with him. He was a blast, so full of energy. We could see why Taylor enjoyed him.
The next day it was off to the famous, previously infamous, Comuna 13. Once one of the most violent spots on the planet. Now its a massive tourist attraction. I do wonder how the locals cope with not being able to move most of the year as the place is packed with walking tour groups. Like ours. Our guide was terrible so we bailed out once we got to the escalators (HK is the only other city in the world that has them). The upper levels were great. Plenty of buskers, food sellers and atmosphere. On the journey down we passed our tour group so had to take evasive action to avoid detection.
The next day we decided to take the gondola from the Acavdo Metro stop to Arvi and the national park up there. The metro in Medellin really is amazing. It transformed the city when it was built in 1995. It is a breeze to navigate with basically 2 lines – a north and south and an east to west. The gondolas run off various stops and head into the hills. Medellin won the worlds most innovative city in 2012 for the work that it is doing to integrate the different social classes and hence reduce crime. We had a brief walk around the park looking for a lake that was meant to be nearby. After 45 minutes of walking we gave up – nothing was signposted with a maze of paths making it impossible to find the lake. We headed home and wandered up to the funky Lalinde area for an early dinner and some cards in one of the many bars. For once we were the last to leave (it was a 10.30pm close!). We were off to Guatape tomorrow. We both felt like we had not really given Medellin a fair crack. It was probably because of the location – a wee bit from the city center and the nightlife spots and also because we were shattered from all the physical activity in Salento.
And, finally a dog …
