After a lovely morning doing nothing, we headed out of town to tackle the Rio Colorado walk. We arrived at the car park at the start of the walk and was met by a couple of guides offering their services. We had read that it cost 50 pesos ($1.80) for a guide so thought we would provide some employment. We asked how much only to be told 300 pesos. When we said no, they told us it was mandatory and they would call the police if we did not use a guide. Our response was direct.
We did wonder if we had made a mistake turning down the guide after losing the path for the 5th or 6th time. However we soon got into the swing of it and enjoyed the physical and mental challenge – a bit like orienteering. We could not really get lost given we were following the river to a waterfall. At one stage however Deryn headed up a steep cliff trying to find the path and I did start to get a bit worried about her making it back down again – needlessly of course.
We finally made it to the waterfall and was encouraged to have a swim by a fellow traveler. Deryn pushed the boundary further by heading under the waterfall. The water was freezing!! We encountered lots of goats on our journey back, they certainly weren’t too concerned about humans.
Deryn visited the Museum of the Vine and Wine of Cafayate and said it was really impressive. Well worth a visit.
We hired some bikes the next day to visit a few of the many vineyards in the area. Paid an extra 100 pesos (600 pesos – $20 for a day hire) for the better mountain bikes although they turned out to be pretty average. Most of the vineyards we visited were either closed or ambivalent to our presence – it would have been useless doing a tour as they were only conducted in Spanish. We found an open vineyard (100m from our hotel) and paid 50 pesos for a tasting session. The Puerto Marini Vineyard was founded by an Italian 4 generations ago. The wine was very good. We spent the afternoon playing cards and backgammon in a cafe in the town square before another early night.
We spent a leisurely 4 hours driving back to Salta, stopping at the many little geological sites on the way to marvel at the splendour of Mother Nature (and time). We stayed at a lovely little hotel close to airport (Poseda El Paso – with amazing gardens and pool) due to our need to be at the airport at 4.15am. It was meant to be tomorrow but we’ve just found out we’ve been pushed back 24 hours due to a strike. Looks like we are going to spend a day in Salta after all.
And finally for some more dog (and a grey fox) photos.
We got the 11am flight from Iguazú Falls to Salta where we had arranged for a rental car to explore the provinces of Salta and Jujuy. Salta is 1152m above sea level in the foothills of the Andes. We picked up our rental car after receiving instructions how to drive a manual (?) and headed north towards Jujuy Provence. We had barely been in the car for 20 minutes when we thought we were being pulled over by 2 politcia on the side of the road – we were warned that there were endless police stops on the roads. In fact, it was simply 2 cops hitching a ride back home after their car had broken down. One of them spoke good English so we had a tour guide for the first hour.
The journey to Tilcara in the heart of the Jujuy Provence, a World Heritage area, was a 3 hour drive and with overcast skies and with my dodgy tummy, it was a journey of few stops. We arrived at our Tilcara Mistica Hostel around 5 – first impressions were not great and they did not improve. I guess you can’t expect much from US25 per night although I (everyone!) was thankful that we at least did not need to share a bathroom.
We got up early for our drive the next day to the famous 14 Coloured Mountain of Humahuaca. Breakfast was akin to prisoner rations which sort of suited my stomach. The drive to Humahuaca took about 40 minutes, we stopped briefly in the town to grab some cocoa leaves before heading into the mountains and the Hornocal Mirador (lookout). Shortly after leaving town we turned onto a dirt road for another 40 minutes or so of steep climbing and endless hairpins. Both of us could feel the effect of the altitude so we started chewing on the cocoa leaves – Deryn said they tasted like shit, given her obvious greater experience, I took her word for it.
We finally reached the Mirador which was over 4300m. We then had a 10 minute walk down to the best viewpoint. The colours in the mountains were spectacular – caused by shells and sediments when the mountains were at the bottom of the ocean. “Tony Abbott has a lot to answer for (R Dowling)”. We could have stayed there for days but the effect of the altitude combined with a cold wind meant we could only manage 20 minutes. The walk back took a while due to the altitude which left us feeling very lightheaded and fatigued even though we were chewing cocoa leaves like a couple of cows.
We headed back to Tilcara for some food before driving to Uquia for the Hike to Mars. The start of the walk required us to drive though the town and then on to a very, very rough road to a car park – I actually thought it was part of the walk. Unfortunately I was not up to doing the full walk but at least we got a feel of the area.
We planned to head away early the next day but needed a bit of a sleep in as a bunch of fellow guests (we were at least 25 years older than any of them) decided to have a bit of a party until 2am. The plan was to visit the Salinas Grandes (large salt plains) on our way to Cafayate, about 5.5 hours south. The Salinas Grande was a 40 minutes drive from the beautiful town of Purmamarca. It was another incredible climb with more endless hairpins – this road was at least paved as it was Ruta 52 through to Chile. The peak of the pass was around 4200m before dropping down into the salt plains. Again it was incredible to imagine this vast plain was once at the bottom of the ocean. We had some fun with the camera and the endless landscape to take some perspective photos – at least Deryn knew what she was doing. The altitude again required some cocoa chewing.
We had our fun and then headed back to Purmamarca for lunch. It is a beautiful town and we both wished that we had stayed there instead of Tilcara. After a few empanadas (cheese and spinach – yum) we started on our 5.5 hour drive to Cafayate according to the route chosen by Sygic, our GPS.
We soon realised that we were taking a different route to Salta than that on the way up, but were OK given we know there was 2 ways to get there. 75 minutes into our drive we found the road getting very narrow and most unlike a major route. Deryn gave the navigator a bit of stick and even turned around before confirming we were in fact on the right road and turned around again. The cop at the check point must have wondered what the hell was going on as we passed him for the third time.
Very quickly we were into dense mountainous bush on a road barely 1 vehicle wide, having to continually dodge all sorts of livestock – cows, horses, sheep, goats, dogs and even a piglet. It was hard driving but so different to the spectacular but barren landscapes that we had been driving through. We finally reached Salta and headed south to Cafayate. Yet again we were back in the mountains with the most incredible landscapes – I wanted to stop every 10 minutes to take photos but our desire to get to our hotel before dark prevented me from doing so. We arrived at our Hotel Asturias at around 630pm and was showered and sitting in a local cafe for dinner by 7!
The hotel was lovely and the following morning we agreed that rather than endure another day of tough driving to Cachi and even tougher driving back to Salta, we would spend 3 nights here and return on the decent road back to Salta. I am writing this blog in a cafe in the main square of Cafayate with the sun beating down on me, sipping on a coffee listening to the local music filling the air, feeling very good about that decision. Or maybe its just because I have overcome my tummy bug.
We were both so glad we made the decision to head up here to Iguazu Falls. No photo can do justice to the majesty of these falls. The sheer number of falls (275) in itself is incredible. Deryn and I were saying that many of these falls in isolation would be a tourist attraction in NZ!
We arrived at Iguazu Falls airport on the Argentinian size and got a taxi to our hotel (the famous Belmond Hotel) in the national park on the Brazilian size of the falls. The taxi cost 1400 pesos (A$35) and made the border crossing a breeze. The hotel was beautiful. We checked in and decided to visit the falls via boat. It cost about A$100 each, took 2.5 hours door to door for a 15 minute dunk under one of the waterfalls. Confirmed Deryn and my aversion to group tours.
We then walked around the falls once the park had been closed for day trippers – a real perk of staying in the hotel. The falls were amazing.
We had arranged for Sergio (our taxi driver from the day before) to meet us at the park entrance at 730 the following day for an early start to get into the park on the Argentine side. It was a great strategy as it meant we could get the first train to the main falls vantage point before the hordes arrived. It was absolutely incredible. Everyone should try get to see these falls. By the time we left the viewing platform, the crowds had grown from a few to about 30 with an endless stream arriving as each new train disgorged its passengers.
We then walked the two other circuits – the Superior Circuit, which was a walk around the top of the falls – and the Inferior Circuit around the bottom. Both are definitely worth doing but Deryn and I agree the Inferior was superior. We also agreed that the Argie side was better than the Brazilian although both are incredible.
I came down with a tummy bug so spent the afternoon lounging by the pool and having a kip in our luxury room – decided to make the most of the amazing facilities before we head off to Salta and back to hostels. If anyone does head down to BA to watch the Wallabies or AB’s play the Puma’s, make sure you include Iguazu Falls in your agenda.
We were feeling a bit sad that our time in BA was coming to a close. We had a leisurely start to the day before heading off to buy Deryn some new walking boots – the current ones were causing a few hassle around her left ankle. Amazing how all shopping centres look the same!
We then got back on the subway and headed back to San Juan on the C line to make our way to Feria De San Telmo. The primary purpose was to witness the famous tango in the market. We had decided against going to a show and dinner the night before figuring a 730pm start with a 1am finish was not worth the price. It was a lovely afternoon, exploring the cobbled streets filled with interesting stalls and activities. We We got to see the famous tango which was a highlight after which we spent several hours playing cards and supping ales in a cool cafe chock full of knick knacks.
By the time we got on the subway to return to our hotel we were both steaming. A great way to spend our last day in Buenos Aires!
We had a chilled (literally) morning in El Calafate before catching a flight to Buenos Aries. Both Deryn and I lost our pocket knives as we stupidly had them in our hand luggage. 3 hours later and we were in a BA and wearing too many clothes.
We arrived at our boutique hotel (Hostel Boutique – go figure) in the Palermo area. We had a lovely meal in the foody area around Armenia Square. We headed away early the next day to get to the Teatro Colon for a 4 hour guided walking tour. We grabbed a subway card from the hotel and ventured onto the subway system. It was very easy.
The walking tour was brilliant – mostly around the Recoleta and Retiro districts. The guide was incredibly knowledgeable and we got a really good overview of the history of BA. Basically the city didn’t exist before 1880, after which they tried to build a city that copied the best ideas from cities all over the world. Paris was a particular favourite. Even a lot of the trees are from all over Argentina. We also got a very good understanding of the mindset of the Argentines – the guide talked for a while about the Falklands (or Islas Malinas as the locals call them). It bought about the end of the Dirty War military junta in which 30,000 people disappeared or were killed. Our guide also talked about the two terrorist attacks in 1992 and 1994 on Jewish targets which killed a lot of people. No one has claimed responsibility for the attacks – the person conducting the most recent enquiry into the attacks surprisingly killed himself a day before he was going to announce his findings.
The next day we went to hire some bikes only to find the shop had run out of bikes 10 minutes after it opened. Never mind, back into the subway. We headed to the La Boca area – a more grungy area well known for its street art and the world famous Boca Junior football team. We got the subway to the end of the H line (Constitucion)and then walked the 3km into the area. It was certainly a lot poorer than where we had been to date – the locals were also shorter and darker! It was great though and the Estadio Alberto J Armando was amazing. It would be special on a match day. It got a bit touristy in the heart of the area but apart from that it was well worth the visit.
We then headed back underground to go for a walk around the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta, where all rich and famous have their crypts. The size and splendour of some contrasted with the dilapidation of others. Again, well worth a visit.
We arranged for a taxi to drive us to the Perito Merino glacier. It meant we could come and go as we pleased and also pop into the Glaciarium Museum on way home. We got picked up at 815am – after luckily finding an open bakery for a pastry breakfast. These Argies don’t like rising easily or eating brekkie.
It took us an hour to get to the glacier. It was incredible; the sheer scale of the wall of ice, the rifle shots coming from within the living mass and every now and then, a roar as the ice broke off into the water. It was also breathtaking watching the rising sun highlight the blue of the ice. The 2 hours we spent walking around on the impressive walkways passed in a flash.
On our return journey we stopped in at the highly rated Galcierium Museum. It was filled with glacial facts, the highlight of which was watching a movie on the colllapes of the ice bridge at the Perito Marino glacier. The glacier connects with the land every few years and creates a barrier between Lago Argentino. The water levels rises (27m in this case) on one side before the water pressure eeventually creates a passage through ice which then, over several days, causes the bridge to collapse. Amazing to watch the power of nature.
We then got on the lash (and cards and backgammon) before finishing off the night at a local bar. Before we go, a picture of a couple of Zorros .
We got up early (7am!) to get to the Condor lookout by sunrise at 830. It was below zero so we rugged up well. We needed our headlamps to guide us up the gentle gradient to the lookout.
Watching Mt Fitzroy the accompanying peaks slowly getting illuminated by the rising sun was spectacular. Made us realise what we had missed on our first day’s hike to Laguna de los Tres. We then walked to Mirador de las Aquilas – with a view of the lake and surrounding plaines.
We got the 1pm bus back to El Calafate after which we spent an hour or so walking around rhetoric town centre. The town was a bit bigger than we expected with a lot of outdoor equipment shops!
Today we did the Laguna de los Tres trek starting from the village of El Chalten to the lagoon lake below the triple granite peaks of Poincenot (3,002m), Fitz Roy (3,375m) and Mermoz (2,732m).
The majority of the trek was on easy paths with not too much climbing. Both Deryn and I were wearing 4 layers of clothing as well as gloves and beanies for most of the trek. The landscape varied from lovely shady beech forests to quite bleak alpine meadows. We got some spectacular views of the three peaks on the way up but unfortunately never without some cloud.
The last 2km was a tough 450 climb up a very icy path. It was also made more challenging through having to pass overly cautious trekkers on their way up and avoid sliding trekkers on their way down. The lagoon was impressive but unfortunately we did not get the view of the peaks because of the cloud cover.
It started snowing a but heavier on the way down which made for very picturesque landscape. Much like the other treks, the cold water from the glacier rivers was incredibly refreshing. We were both tired by the end of the trek but 25.8km and over a 1,000m of climbing explains why.
We stopped and had dinner at a local restaurant called Padrilla La Oveja Negre – along the main road to the walk. The food was incredible and so cheap. My fresh trout pasta was perfect – an for only $A10.
It was wet and cold when we woke up which gave us some comfort in our decision not to hike the 22km to Grey Glacier.
We caught the 11.30 boat to Pudento and then jumped on a bus back to Puerto Natales. It was sad saying good bye to the spectacular Torre del Paine.
We also said goodbye to some fellow travelers who we met and really enjoyed on the journey – Mike and Robyn the Japanese American couple, Jason who was travelling with his American family for a year and finally the two American sisters Lorraine and Dotty.
We had a great feed back in Puerto Natales at our favourite cafe – Hamburgeuseria https://www.wearepatagonia.com/es-es/dining while all our trekking gear was cleaned in the local lauandromat. Ah, the simple pleasures.
The next day was 2 bus trips – 5.5 hours from Puerto Natales to El Calafate and then 3 hours from El Calafate to El Chalten. Leaving Chile was easy(ish) whereas the first thing you noticed on entering Argentina was the much heavier police presence. Two girls in front of us got dragged off the bus for carrying some unknown substance.
Walking through El Chalten in the freezing dark trying to find our house was a bit of a challenge but after knocking on a few doors we found our home.
We had our first experience last night of communal living. Swapping stories with a cross section (albeit mostly older travellers – relative to those sleeping in the tents that is. We got an amazing list of places we need to see on the rest of our adventure. However the night did not end so well in the communal 8 person Dome. What with the white noise being played from an iPhone (sounded like a cistern filling) and the snoring, it was a terrible night sleep.
We got away early at 8am so we were waking in pretty poor light. Dropped off one bag at the Italian Refugio and then headed to the Brittanico Lookout Point. 20 minutes in we got to see at least 4 avalanches high up in the mountains. Pretty cool.
Once again walk was 800m longer than expected, including a brutal 50 climb at the end. It was worth it thoug at the views of Paine Grande, Castillo and Catedral was amazing
The 13km walk to our hotel for the night – the Paine Grand Refugio – was relatively easy. Part of the trip was through a portion of the park that was burnt in a fire back in 2011. 83,000 acres were badly burnt – the dead trees make for an interesting landscape.
Deryn and I were both feeling the effects of 60km of hard trekking over the 3 days. It’s forecast for snow tomorrow so we’re not heading up to the glacier and will get back into Puerto Natales mid-afternoon rather than 10pm at night. We’re both relieved!!
